Day 39

LMileage: 101
Total mileage: 3417

Quiet, serene, beautiful, downhill Idaho.

This morning I woke up around 8 to the sound of other people packing up their gear into panniers. I laughed a little to myself, knowing how long that takes, and went back to sleep for another 45 minutes. Without even realising it, I've got my packing up and moving out routine down to about 6 minutes. Watching the extended process of the fully loaded cyclists made me really grateful for my backpack setup. I wanted to go to breakfast with these guys so I took a nice hot shower while they finished getting their stuff together, realizing with surprise that I hadn't had a proper shower in 6 days.

After we all ate our breakfast crowded around a tiny table in a little cafe we went outside and ran into Allana! She was riding home from the dentist, saw some loaded bikes outside and figured it was us. She ended up riding the 13 miles back into Lolo with us, just for fun. From there everyone was splintering into different directions and we said our goodbyes as I turned off to climb Lolo pass.

Within an hour of making that turn, I was back in pine forests making my way up the gentle grade toward the pass. These Rocky mountain climbs are so much more moderate and gradual than the hills out east, to the point where climbing can be really relaxing and fun. For about two and a half hours I ascended through the wildflowers and conifers to the top of Lolo pass where I entered Idaho!

Since coming into Idaho, the road has been a very gradual downhill grade for over 60 miles now. You've got to love a state where you can ride the whole afternoon and not have to go up at all yet. I've been following the gentle slope of the Lochsa river through narrow valleys, one after another. What this place lacks in epic sweeping views, it makes up for in smells and sounds. The peaceful rumble of the river and the chirping birds, coupled with the heady scent of pine makes for pleasant riding that makes the hours quickly slip away.

In the late afternoon, I rode by a bridge that promised hot springs, only a mile and a half of hiking away. With no real destination in mind for tonight, I decided to take a couple of hours to explore, and boy am I glad I did! The trail followed a creek back until it dissolved into a boulder field with water flowing laterally down the hillside between the rocks to meet the river. In places, there were small pools where the water was collected. I tried my foot in one and sure enough, it was hot!

About that time, an Australian shepherd ran up to me and started begging for attention. As I reached down to pet him, I looked around and noticed that the pools weren't empty. I had the choice between finding my own pool, joining a couple of girls in a large pool fairly close or hanging out with some naked men spread across the other pools. I opted for clothing and to meet the girls, whom the dog belonged to.

Enter the sisters Ashley, Shelby, Paige and their honorary sister Brandy. They're from Missoula (further confirming my impression that Montana has the prettiest girls in the country) where Ashley and Brandy are nurses while Paige and Shelby were just home for the summer from college where they both play basketball. It was hilarious and fun hanging out around siblings again. Ashley and I apparently wandered into medical territory with our conversation, prompting both Paige and Shelby to dramatically feign sleep and start snoring. What sisterly love! We enjoyed the springs for a while and then we hiked back out to the road, trying ineffectively to keep their dog out of the mud as we went.

Back at the road the generosity didn't stop. Without my asking, they topped off my water bottles and Ashley even gave me a pair of beers for camp tonight. It's hard to believe how lucky I keep getting as far as meeting people. Running into these ladies was hands down the highlight of my day!

When I got back on the bike, the sun was starting to set over the mountains. I was able to put 30 more miles on before it was too dark to continue and I had to pull over. I found a little turnoff and followed it a few hundred yards to a small clearing, pitching my tarp between a couple of trees with the last of the light as insurance against rain. Under the stars in the clearing I laid out my bedroll and lay down. 'Dinner' was a 3000 calorie snack of cookies from a convenience store up the road, washed down with Ashley's beer. It's cold out, but my legs are toasty warm inside the sleeping bag and my arms are begging to follow suit, so I'm going to turn in for the night. The stars are beautiful once again and I'm looking forward to falling asleep with this view. G'night!